“Borscht” refers to a large category of sour soups in Eastern Europe. Some included are a fermented barley soup, a white borscht made with nettles, and the red beet borscht of Ukrainian fame, which is typically what is meant by “borscht”’ in the U.S. Even more specifically, the inclusion of beans (as in this recipe) is what in Polish would be called “Ukrainian Borscht” even though beans wouldn’t be included in a typical red borscht in Ukraine.
I point this out to connect the dish back to Polish food institutions known as bar mleczny, or in English, milk bars. While they certainly sell dairy based products at these milk bars, other non-dairy Polish dishes such as pierogis, omelets, and soups (like Ukrainian Borscht) are also served at milk bars. While under the communist soviet bloc, these milk bars became state-subsidized institutions where cheap and filling meals could be available to anyone. However, with the fall of Soviet Union most milk bars did not survive the austerity of The Balcerowicz Plan in the early 1990’s. Recently there has been a resurgence of milk bars as low-cost restaurants in Poland, some even again being subsidized by the state.
While in culinary school I thought a lot about the accessibility of food, particularly restaurant food. No matter how you look at it, eating out at a restaurant is a luxury good. While I believe there is an art to the hospitality of restaurants and everyone should experience it from time to time, because they necessarily exclude a large portion of people, I don’t think significant change to the food system can happen through restaurants. Milk bars have always seemed like an interesting alternative to food service to me and something that still inspires me today as we try to build Gard Mo (and locally grown food generally) into something that is accessible to everyone.
Nothing special for this recipe!
Ladle the borscht into a bowl. Garnish with a dollop of sour cream, or a dash of heavy cream and serve with a hunk of sourdough bread.